Matakishi's Tea House
A simple little site...
Love You Short Time- speed painting 20mm Vietnam plastics
By Purple
Hello, I'm not a great painter nor do I pretend to be one and this article will be less than useful to virtually all experienced gamers, but perhaps any hobby newcomers browsing will take a few tips and I'll be happy.
I don't paint with many paints, etc. I tend to mix everything up from the key colours. I sort of adapted this technique from Timmo, I won't pretend I'm even close to being as good as Timmo, he is a fabulous painter, and some of his stuff can be found here;
Timmo takes a base colour and then keeps adding white to the mix to blend upwards. Obviously Timmo blends very slowly opposed to my quick 3 highlight speed job, but he did open my eyes to the use of a palette.
The paints I have in my box are: Red, Blue, Yellow, Brown, White and Black.
No 'Septic Axe Wound to Brain' type paints in my collection!
I just use these colours on my palette to mix and a lot is up to you and you're eye when mixing.
These figures I am painting and basing for urban battles, Hue awaits for me, so don't be surprised to see rocks and lighter uniforms.
Also, anyone who saw my Green Horses, will know that I am colourblind to a certain degree - so if you see any of the colours are strange - don't say it, or I will cry.
STEP ONE - Pre Basing
I tend to base all my figures first, this way you can hold them better and if you texture the bases first you do not have to worry about splatting it on the figures you just spent a day painting!
I use Wicked Ready Mixed Texture Coating, though it's expensive, the tub is probably going to still be half full and sat under the painting desk in about 25 years.
You can also use things like Emulsion paint mixed with Sand and similar. I'm a bit base anal, If I see a figure stand on unfinished bases, I cry for the poor figure and wonder why the poor little soul hasn't been taken into care.
Obviously, if you base you're troops on a multibase, then you're going to have problems with this stage, still if you play 'Nam with multibases, you deserve everything you smegging get!
You heathen!!!
STEP 2 - Preperation & Undercoat
Ok, I know these are plastic figures, yes I hear you weeping at the back - but apart from cleaning the odd bit of flash, I don't do anything else, no washing, spraying, PVA mix, voodoo, witchcraft, etc.
I know lots of you will be thinking I'm talking '******* ****' and that all plastics are '******* ****' and that the paint '*******' falls off - but I've never had chipping, so I do not see the point personally.
(This may be because I don't have gargantuan sausage fingers, covered in the oils of the 2 kfc buckets, 11 tacos and the 2.5 litres of coke I had for breakfast, wiping my stinking, greasy fingers all over any figure that I can find in my limited vision, blurred by my 15 chins and puffy cheeks- you know who you are)
Of course I may be lying, I may be the major share holder of HaT Industries, I may be waiting for you all to paint plastics without preperation so I can laugh manically as the paint seemingly floats off you're figures! (Cue Evil laugh)
I undercoat the figures black. I've not always been this depraved, but I have recently been converted. You know when you've done a good job on the undercoating when the figures are so black, they refuse to focus.
STEP 3 - First coats
Now for the fun.
I like to start off with flesh, and darkest layer is lots of brown, bit of white, bit more of yellow, tiny weeny bit of red. - And all flesh bits are done so.
My black fellows are done as black, bit of brown, tiny bit of red.
I stole this from WD3 painters.
Some people chuck the first coats on, but I like to try and be accurate as you can, even at this first stage - speed painting remember!!
Then after flesh, I go for the main uniform colours. Equal parts blue and yellow and a touch of black.
In Vietnam the environment had a big effect on the uniforms, uniforms faded, webbing and equipment went pink and tanned and just about every uniform looked different. That is a reason I find the mixing method, useful in this project - you aren't getting the same colours over and over so there is slight variation in you're troops.
I like to take this further by deliberately looking for a new colour on the next platoon - so the troops in this article are very faded, the next will be a lot greener, and I shall mix the two up when completed.
As you can see, first dark uniform green is on, I have left some black showing through and the darkest folds and left almost like a tiny black outline when two seems or equipment meets.
Then all the webbing gets done dark brown, again leaving the tiny outlines and dark folds.
STEP 4 - Second Coats
Flesh - gets just a brown and yellow, with hint of white mix. Not too light.
Leave some of the darker layer at edges, deep muscle lines, etc.
The black fellows get a brown, red, and small squidge of black mix - you will know it as you see it.
Uniforms get a next layer. Same as before, but this time without the black.
You can be a lot more adventurous with this layer. use straight lines to pick out folds and again, keep those dark layers round the edges - don't be scared of big flat areas of colour though.
Webbing gets a brown, yellow splodge highlight. Pick out the folds, etc - don't be scared to leave lots of dark folds. - I also use this colour to add tiny blots of camouflage to the helmets. Don't worry if its not too great because you will be fading them out later.
Excuse the photography, I don't think Henry will be giving me a job.
At this point you may like to go to the toilet...
Too late, come back!
STEP 5 - Final highlight and Giant Cats from Mars
Flesh - yellow,brown, white, red. Very light, just pick off the main raised areas, the face and fingers come to life particularly in this phase, the black people get their lightest mix, with hardly any black, lots of brown and a good helping of red.
Fatigues and helmet get their last highlight. This mix of blue, yellow and white is going to scare you when you first put it on, as you scream; ''Boob rash! That's far too light!"
But it blends trust me! Top folds, nice straight lines! Don't be scared of flat areas.
Remember your helmet needs a dab too.
At this moment it will hopefully start raining and you will feel less guilty for sitting in all day.
STEP 6 - Quick Weathering
Now I take a sandy fleshy mix, yellows, whites, little bit of brown - and I get some hardcore drybrushing going.
Firstly, the webbing, I give it a good seeing to. It really brings out the webbing and makes me happy in pants.
Then the same stuff, I go all out on the helmet, trouser leg bottoms, front and back of boots, knees, bottom of trouser pockets, elbows, etc.
Your paintbrush has to be dryer than a nuns postbox or you will ruin the figure - as the nun said again - 'Take it slow Gentlemen'
STEP 7 - Basing
Click on the picture for a larger version.
Kitty litter, lightweight and preferably out of the packet as opposed to the cats tray. No sniggering, that brown lump is not Hamburger Hill.
I first tried sticking the litter in the textured base as I started the figures, but it will not stick and instead you will be finding bits of litter for the next 7 to 8 weeks on the floor, desk, draws, cupboards, underwear.
Cover the base in PVA or wood glue, Add the lumps of kitty litter, not too many and I find that they are better placed around the centre, if you do it on the edges it looks less professional, for some weird reason.
As the PVA is tacky whack a load of sand on it and leave to dry for ages.
When dry, I paint in a really dark mix of brown, black and red followed by a highlight of browny, yellow mix.
Then a flesh sandy colour, similar to the weathering colour I used, to pick out all the stones, rocks, etc.
Then a white with a smidge of black drybrush on all the rocks.
Finally a pure white drybrush on said rocks and Robert's you're mother's brother.
Then I like to flock with a longer 'hairy static grass' - but more patchy.
For a final measure I paint the base edges black and the boys are ready for my beloved Charlie to do nasty things to them.
Thanks All, one platoon painted in a day - I'm now going to have a cup of tea and wait for my figures to shed their paint.
Click on the picture for a larger version.
Click on the picture for a larger version.
Hello, I'm not a great painter nor do I pretend to be one and this article will be less than useful to virtually all experienced gamers, but perhaps any hobby newcomers browsing will take a few tips and I'll be happy.
I don't paint with many paints, etc. I tend to mix everything up from the key colours. I sort of adapted this technique from Timmo, I won't pretend I'm even close to being as good as Timmo, he is a fabulous painter, and some of his stuff can be found here;
Timmo takes a base colour and then keeps adding white to the mix to blend upwards. Obviously Timmo blends very slowly opposed to my quick 3 highlight speed job, but he did open my eyes to the use of a palette.
The paints I have in my box are: Red, Blue, Yellow, Brown, White and Black.
No 'Septic Axe Wound to Brain' type paints in my collection!
I just use these colours on my palette to mix and a lot is up to you and you're eye when mixing.
These figures I am painting and basing for urban battles, Hue awaits for me, so don't be surprised to see rocks and lighter uniforms.
Also, anyone who saw my Green Horses, will know that I am colourblind to a certain degree - so if you see any of the colours are strange - don't say it, or I will cry.
STEP ONE - Pre Basing
I tend to base all my figures first, this way you can hold them better and if you texture the bases first you do not have to worry about splatting it on the figures you just spent a day painting!
I use Wicked Ready Mixed Texture Coating, though it's expensive, the tub is probably going to still be half full and sat under the painting desk in about 25 years.
You can also use things like Emulsion paint mixed with Sand and similar. I'm a bit base anal, If I see a figure stand on unfinished bases, I cry for the poor figure and wonder why the poor little soul hasn't been taken into care.
Obviously, if you base you're troops on a multibase, then you're going to have problems with this stage, still if you play 'Nam with multibases, you deserve everything you smegging get!
You heathen!!!
STEP 2 - Preperation & Undercoat
Ok, I know these are plastic figures, yes I hear you weeping at the back - but apart from cleaning the odd bit of flash, I don't do anything else, no washing, spraying, PVA mix, voodoo, witchcraft, etc.
I know lots of you will be thinking I'm talking '******* ****' and that all plastics are '******* ****' and that the paint '*******' falls off - but I've never had chipping, so I do not see the point personally.
(This may be because I don't have gargantuan sausage fingers, covered in the oils of the 2 kfc buckets, 11 tacos and the 2.5 litres of coke I had for breakfast, wiping my stinking, greasy fingers all over any figure that I can find in my limited vision, blurred by my 15 chins and puffy cheeks- you know who you are)
Of course I may be lying, I may be the major share holder of HaT Industries, I may be waiting for you all to paint plastics without preperation so I can laugh manically as the paint seemingly floats off you're figures! (Cue Evil laugh)
I undercoat the figures black. I've not always been this depraved, but I have recently been converted. You know when you've done a good job on the undercoating when the figures are so black, they refuse to focus.
STEP 3 - First coats
Now for the fun.
I like to start off with flesh, and darkest layer is lots of brown, bit of white, bit more of yellow, tiny weeny bit of red. - And all flesh bits are done so.
My black fellows are done as black, bit of brown, tiny bit of red.
I stole this from WD3 painters.
Some people chuck the first coats on, but I like to try and be accurate as you can, even at this first stage - speed painting remember!!
Then after flesh, I go for the main uniform colours. Equal parts blue and yellow and a touch of black.
In Vietnam the environment had a big effect on the uniforms, uniforms faded, webbing and equipment went pink and tanned and just about every uniform looked different. That is a reason I find the mixing method, useful in this project - you aren't getting the same colours over and over so there is slight variation in you're troops.
I like to take this further by deliberately looking for a new colour on the next platoon - so the troops in this article are very faded, the next will be a lot greener, and I shall mix the two up when completed.
As you can see, first dark uniform green is on, I have left some black showing through and the darkest folds and left almost like a tiny black outline when two seems or equipment meets.
Then all the webbing gets done dark brown, again leaving the tiny outlines and dark folds.
STEP 4 - Second Coats
Flesh - gets just a brown and yellow, with hint of white mix. Not too light.
Leave some of the darker layer at edges, deep muscle lines, etc.
The black fellows get a brown, red, and small squidge of black mix - you will know it as you see it.
Uniforms get a next layer. Same as before, but this time without the black.
You can be a lot more adventurous with this layer. use straight lines to pick out folds and again, keep those dark layers round the edges - don't be scared of big flat areas of colour though.
Webbing gets a brown, yellow splodge highlight. Pick out the folds, etc - don't be scared to leave lots of dark folds. - I also use this colour to add tiny blots of camouflage to the helmets. Don't worry if its not too great because you will be fading them out later.
Excuse the photography, I don't think Henry will be giving me a job.
At this point you may like to go to the toilet...
Too late, come back!
STEP 5 - Final highlight and Giant Cats from Mars
Flesh - yellow,brown, white, red. Very light, just pick off the main raised areas, the face and fingers come to life particularly in this phase, the black people get their lightest mix, with hardly any black, lots of brown and a good helping of red.
Fatigues and helmet get their last highlight. This mix of blue, yellow and white is going to scare you when you first put it on, as you scream; ''Boob rash! That's far too light!"
But it blends trust me! Top folds, nice straight lines! Don't be scared of flat areas.
Remember your helmet needs a dab too.
At this moment it will hopefully start raining and you will feel less guilty for sitting in all day.
STEP 6 - Quick Weathering
Now I take a sandy fleshy mix, yellows, whites, little bit of brown - and I get some hardcore drybrushing going.
Firstly, the webbing, I give it a good seeing to. It really brings out the webbing and makes me happy in pants.
Then the same stuff, I go all out on the helmet, trouser leg bottoms, front and back of boots, knees, bottom of trouser pockets, elbows, etc.
Your paintbrush has to be dryer than a nuns postbox or you will ruin the figure - as the nun said again - 'Take it slow Gentlemen'
STEP 7 - Basing
Click on the picture for a larger version.
Kitty litter, lightweight and preferably out of the packet as opposed to the cats tray. No sniggering, that brown lump is not Hamburger Hill.
I first tried sticking the litter in the textured base as I started the figures, but it will not stick and instead you will be finding bits of litter for the next 7 to 8 weeks on the floor, desk, draws, cupboards, underwear.
Cover the base in PVA or wood glue, Add the lumps of kitty litter, not too many and I find that they are better placed around the centre, if you do it on the edges it looks less professional, for some weird reason.As the PVA is tacky whack a load of sand on it and leave to dry for ages.
When dry, I paint in a really dark mix of brown, black and red followed by a highlight of browny, yellow mix.
Then a flesh sandy colour, similar to the weathering colour I used, to pick out all the stones, rocks, etc.
Then a white with a smidge of black drybrush on all the rocks.
Finally a pure white drybrush on said rocks and Robert's you're mother's brother.
Then I like to flock with a longer 'hairy static grass' - but more patchy.
For a final measure I paint the base edges black and the boys are ready for my beloved Charlie to do nasty things to them.
Thanks All, one platoon painted in a day - I'm now going to have a cup of tea and wait for my figures to shed their paint.
Click on the picture for a larger version.
Click on the picture for a larger version.
