Matakishi's Tea House

A simple little site...

By Jason Miller

Tools of the Trade




1. The most common sculpting tools seem to be 'putty pushers'. That is they are hard metal tools with tips set at a low thin angle so you can scoop, smooth, push, pull. I use a variety of sizes-as you can see top to bottom the flat thin part of each tool gets smaller and smaller- in fact I had to tweak the contrast to even see the smaller ones clearly. Of particular interest is the one second from the top. It started life as a 'nut pick' as seen in the next pic below. Simply smash the end flat on a small blue anvil or other strong hard flat surface. I then cut and filed the surface to get it as smooth as possible. (I also do my swords this way for my minis- after all flat metal is pretty easy to turn into a sculpt of flat metal lol.) Cost: Most metal tools range from $5-20 USD although I have found that well stocked Gem Stores have them for around $9 USD. The nut picks are 4 for $1. In addition I have made some tools out of thicker wire (coat hanger even).



2. This section of sculpting tools is best used for smoothing... in a large part this is due to the soft naturally curvy nature of the clay shapers and the eraser. See when you push with a hard tool the force is unevenly distributed across the tip unless you apply the pressure evenly. With a soft clay shaper the pressure across the surface of the tool seems to more evenly distribute itself- making the putty smooth and fairly easy to 'tease' into shape. Usually I use the first section of tools to push the putty into place then I use this section of tools to actually shape the putty. Then I go back to the first set to really put 'crisp' edges on the shapes. The only exception is the nut pick- I use this little fellow to seal along the line between two different applications of putty- the 'seam' if you will. Then I use one of the softer smoothers to make it level. Cost: I get my Clay Shapers for around $6 USD at a local art store. Color Shapers (used for painting) are a softer substitute for Clay Shapers. Erasers are slightly stiffer clay shapers but the principle is similar.



3. These tools are ones that I think of as 'texture' tools. You typically push them directly into the putty or drag them across the putty to give it a texture. Really any tool can be used for this purpose- so long as you understand you will be making a 'female' impression of the texture. The one I have mislabeled as 'distance checking' is because I also use this to check that the points between limbs are the same- ie elbow to wrist ect. Holding a ruler up doesnt always work but the distance between two points is all you need verify in some cases. I recommend Dollar Stores for most of these 'non standard' sculpting tools.



4. I use this section of tools for a variety of uses- they work great for 'poking' small details into figures- as well as getting into the minis tight zones. I seem to use the tiniest ball for doing the eyes/ nose pushing lol. Cost: The nice double ended one was $6USD at Michaels the other two were $1 each at a dollar store.



5. Wooden tools can be used for a variety of things- I personally have moved away from them as the wood grain texture always seems to get my putty stuck to it unless I heavily lube it. We typically use all of our wood for terrain projects now.



Skellies, Dollys, Greens Skellies and Dollys are sometimes mentioned- basically it is just a way of refering to how 'bulked out' a sculpt or 'green' is. A 'Green' is usually a finished sculpt although sometimes people will call them WIP (Work In Progress) Cork Although a variety of methods can be used to hold a green I much prefer cork as I usually work with wire Skellies. Cost: I get 90 corks for $7USD at the Wine making store.

Putty Pit/ Monster It never fails- I'll mix up some green stuff and the phone rings or I have to leave. Although some people have had limited success with freezing mixed green stuff I much prefer to have a bunch of wires, or a Skelly already handy to add putty to. I call it a pit or monster because I usually only add putty to it when I have no time to use it or when I come back and it has lost much of its adhesiveness and is starting to get too rubbery. This way within a few short weeks I have slowly made a skelly into a dolly. Large Cork For larger sculpts - same place as the smaller corks but these are 'bungs' for barrels so the clerk may not consider them corks. I've tried rubber bungs (ha ha ha) but they are pretty springy and it was a good bit of effort to make holes in them without launching your skelly across the room Cost: $3 USD.



Vaseline/Jelly, Cotton Swabs In some cases I make use of vaseline as a lube for both the sculpting tools as well as to be sure that two levels of green stuff do not fully adhere. Dollar stores win here again.



Measurement Devices Good for seeing how long, tall, wide, round, flat whatever. The shapes are great for base sizes for example I also make 'scale rulers' although I have recently found them available commercially. A scale ruler is great because it tells you at a quick glance how tall your model is in that scale. (Scale should not be confused with style) Cost: The fancy-pants shape thing was $7USD at Staples, the Scale Ruler was $9USD at a local hobby store.



Hobby Knives, felt pen, razor, sharpening stone, pin vise, cutting board.

Used for cutting and stabbing and uh- trimming miniatures. A knife is a must for a sculptor becasue at some point everyone needs to cut a mistake off lol. I got most of these at the dollar store as well-and the sharpening stone keeps those blades nice and sharp for far longer than intended lol. The cutting board I had to get at Staples after spilling paint all over my larger one. A good cutting board can save a table and a marriage but it will cost $12-60 USD depending on the size lol.



Files: I originally got these from a mechanic but now every dollar store has them too so go there. I use the file to remove wire knubs from the bottom of the green.

Sandpaper: You can get most rough grades at dollar stores but for real fine (smooth) paper go to a hardware store.



Small bits of wire: Stub toe into a bit of wire on carpet- take 1d2 damage and save vs cursing. Seriously ow- if I am ever forced to torture and enemy I'm making him walk my carpet a few times. As a result I started to use a magnet to gather stray bits of wire- and now I have a jar of wire fragments. These come in handy for a variety of smaller sculpts so now I save all my wires.

Putty Oven: A metal coffee can with either a low Watt bulb or small candle (never leave a candle unattended). With just a small amount of heat you can speed up the curing process on putty- but remember not to put plastic bits in as some of them have low melting points



Hammers, Small Anvil: For smashing wire flat.

Needle Nose Pliers, Cutter/snip: I use the pliers to bend the wire for the Skellys and twists. The snips are essential for cutting and trimming wire.



Clipboard, paper, pencils, eraser, pens: I use concept art a lot because it is the 2-d 'sculpture' that my 3-d representation is based on. Although I got my fancy metal tin of pencils from Michaels I got the small set for $1 at the dollar store and they both seem to be pretty similar. Of course I usually only use the 2H pencil so maybe thats why. The 2H allows me to make a nice light sketch that I later go over with my pens. Note I do not use the same eraser that I sculpt with!

Natural light bulbs: My lamp is a full spectrum one as I find that up here in Canada I dont get enough 'sun' in the winter. It also happens to be one of the best lights to sculpt/ paint/ and draw under. I can not stress enough how important it is to have good lighting when sculpting. 3-d is all about shadows and so it really helps to have your mini heavily lit. Although this lamp cost me $190USD they now have other bulbs on the market that would do just as well. Really any strong light will help- though when painting it is another matter as the color may be off.

Reference Materials: If you are sculpting humans you would really be advised to look at humans. Seriously. For example did you know that by knowing the size of someones pelvis you can make fairly accurate predictions on their bone structure and size? Trust me - you'll start to walk the mall and see little imaginary lines over people's limbs and pelvis as you check to see if they have proper body propotions. Don't believe me? Well the judge didnt either..... Seriously though I thought I knew what people looked like but until I looked at a human anatomy book I was actually clueless. You know- the picture where the little guy looks like a side of beef with all of his muscles labeled? Well that is a good place to start learning lol.